Camino de Santiago Day Twenty-three
León to Villadangos del Páramo
After the mass last night, at the León Cathedral, we stayed out to enjoy the evening. The Spanish culture is so social—everyone enjoying a paseo along the narrow streets and gathering around a drink and free tapas. The first place we stopped was right in front of the Cathedral.
At our last stop, we splurged and paid for the morcilla (tripe blood sausage on toast—surprisingly good) and vermut casero from Paco at La Bicha. His spicy chorizo on bread tapa was also great.
This morning we stumbled on the Saturday farmer's market. Beautiful produce, cured meats and cheeses, under colorful tents, and people connecting with one another.
We had breakfast looking at the Cathedral. It’s hard to get the three story structure in the picture. We took the audio tour and loved the descriptions of how and when it was built.
The thirteenth century was a boom for architects and builders (see Pillars of the Earth). Coming out of the dark, thick walled Romanesque into the light and airy Gothic, the builders crossed vaults to bear the weight so the walls could hold the beautiful stained glass. This cathedral has the second most stained glass in Europe and was built in just 50 years, around 1250.
As impressive as the building was and is, it’s only because of the remarkable renovations over the last 150 years that we are able to see it. At one point, the dome over the transept crumbled and someone in the nineteenth century had to figure out how to replace the roof. Just five years ago, all the stained glass was taken out, piece by piece, and the iron frames were replaced with brass.
So, it’s the creative genius of these buildings that reflects amazing art and architecture, science and imagination. But the preservation of this kind of masterpiece is also miraculous.
I liked the two signs we came across along the Camino. There is an alternate route and the original route. They wanted to make sure we saw with arrows all over the street.
And a sign in a café we stopped at for coffee and an ice cream bar. I think it is from Tibet. “We suffer too much for the little we don’t have, and we take little pleasure in all we do have. Happy week.”
This morning we stumbled on the Saturday farmer's market. Beautiful produce, cured meats and cheeses, under colorful tents, and people connecting with one another.
We had breakfast looking at the Cathedral. It’s hard to get the three story structure in the picture. We took the audio tour and loved the descriptions of how and when it was built.
The thirteenth century was a boom for architects and builders (see Pillars of the Earth). Coming out of the dark, thick walled Romanesque into the light and airy Gothic, the builders crossed vaults to bear the weight so the walls could hold the beautiful stained glass. This cathedral has the second most stained glass in Europe and was built in just 50 years, around 1250.
As impressive as the building was and is, it’s only because of the remarkable renovations over the last 150 years that we are able to see it. At one point, the dome over the transept crumbled and someone in the nineteenth century had to figure out how to replace the roof. Just five years ago, all the stained glass was taken out, piece by piece, and the iron frames were replaced with brass.
So, it’s the creative genius of these buildings that reflects amazing art and architecture, science and imagination. But the preservation of this kind of masterpiece is also miraculous.
What motivates us to create and care about beauty, especially in a place of worship? What draws our hearts and heads to marvel at light and lines? God has wired us to worship, and whether it’s believers gathering for mass or tourists gathering around a guide, everyone is in awe.
We had our morning prayer in that space and two things stood out.
First, our Celtic Daily Prayer: One thing I ask of the Lord and this is what I seek—that I might dwell in the house of the Lord all the days of my life, to behold the beauty of the Lord and to seek him in his temple.
Second, our scripture reading from John 3:21 But whoever lives by the truth comes into the light...
We left León this morning, passing through the ancient walls and along the industrial corridor to our next stop along a two lane highway.
I liked the two signs we came across along the Camino. There is an alternate route and the original route. They wanted to make sure we saw with arrows all over the street.
And a sign in a café we stopped at for coffee and an ice cream bar. I think it is from Tibet. “We suffer too much for the little we don’t have, and we take little pleasure in all we do have. Happy week.”
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