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Pergamum, Bursa and Nicea

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Pergamum was an ancient city of power and worship. 4th century bc fortress walls remain upon which was built subsequent victors, including Trajan.  A temple to Zeus where sacrifices were made and incense burned from the altar. This is the altar John wrote about in Revelation 2 "where Satan lives."  Chapter eight tells of the golden altar where the prayers of believers rise, like incense--a superior picture of worship. Trajan built the temple to Athena, goddess of war to credit her for his victories. He built himself a super-sized temple where the emperor was worshiped as Lord and Savior. Here's the choice for the early church: worship Caesar who is all powerful, provides roads and services, defends against great armies and is here in this awesome temple. Or worship Jesus who is no longer here on earth, is represented by Christians who fear persecution and alienation from the marketplace, who seems powerless against the power of Rome. This temple was perch...

Patmos

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John was exiled for not pledging allegiance to Emperor Domitian as Lord. It was only because of Domitian's death, and a new emperor who was sympathetic to the Christians, that John was released.  John spent 18 months on Patmos in exile, then returned to Ephesus where he died a natural death at 105.  While he was there with his scribe Procorus he had a revelation from Jesus about the things that would soon take place.  He wrote the seven churches all along in the same mail route as Ephesus. These were brothers and sisters who suffered and worshipped together. He could see the coast of modern day Turkey and wrote one day "there would be no sea," maybe his own longing for fellowship. We think Procorus delivered the Revelation to the churches before John was released. Imagine what it would have been like for him to return to  his church in Ephesus, and be visited in his old age by church leaders from the other six churches.  John, what was it like to...

Ephesus

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Our guide previewed our visit: Ephesus is a double site. We know about the church in Ephesus from three biblical sources: Acts of the Apostles (18-20), Paul's letter Ephesians and the letter to the church in Revelation.   It's a strategic location for Paul because Ephesus is was the capital of Asia Minor. All roads flowed to the Meander River, which emptied into the Aegean at Ephesus. A port city, the view from the sea included the awesome theater, where the riot broke out against Paul-- 24,000 people chanting “great is  Artemus  of the Ephesians!” The f irst temple to Artemis was built in the 5thC bc, so Ephesus was a famous place of pilgrimage and the temple served as the first bank in the world. This was also a wealthy city with opulent terrace houses, amazing water fountains, 30,000 book Celsus Library. indoor plumbing, and central heating and cooling. The arm of the  10 meters high  statute of Domitian was eight feet long.   Paul s pen...

Pisidian Antioch, Hieropolis, Laodicia and Aphrodisias

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We continued across central Turkey through valleys and farmlands, mountain ranges and lakes, exploring the ancient ruins of cities Paul visited.   Pisidian Antioch is the first place in Asia Minor where Paul's preaching is recorded (Acts 13). We stood among the ruins of a 4th century church built on the sight of the synagogue where he shared the new and good news about Jesus. “We tell you the good news: What God promised our ancestors he has fulfilled for us, their children, by raising up Jesus." Acts 13:32-33 Many believed, but the Jewish leaders rejected them. This is the earliest example of "first the Jews, then then Gentiles." It was all about breaking down walls of separation, welcoming the outsider, expanding comfort zones and being open to the new thing God was doing through the life, death and resurrection of Jesus. It was a cold and windy day (we dressed for Sun), which made for a brisk, invigorating walk through the city where Paul and ...

Galatia

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We journeyed five hours today from Adana through the Taurus Mountains and the Cilician Gates, northeast to Konya, ancient Iconium in the province of Galatia. These steep hills were Paul's only land route between Cilicia and Galatia. Along the way we stopped in Ulukisla to see a carvansaray, the three day way station for Silk Road caravans. But it's Monday and we crashed the bazaar. You'd think we were Martians.  "Hello. Where are you from?" "California." "Oh, Americans!"  What a surprise, and what beautiful produce and smiles. Paul wrote his first letter to this region of Galatia, to the believers in Iconium, Lystra and Derbe. He was incensed about their following a different teaching and adamant about living by the spirit and not by the law. Circumcision, the major identifier for God's people, was the focus of Paul's letter. For in Christ Jesus neither circumcision nor uncircumcision has any value. The on...

Antioch

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Father Domenico carries on the 2000 year old tradition of the house church in Antioch where followers of the Way were first called Christians. A Franciscan, he has served as parish pastor 25 years, following a 20 year ministry in Smyrna at the Church of St Polycarp.  He opens the courtyard doors to welcome all to explore the Christian story through paintings on the wall: Jesus died and rose again; we celebrate The Lord's supper in remembrance of Jesus' death; and the annunciation (also in the Quran) tells of the word of God, and giving birth to Jesus, the Son of God.  It's his joy to tell the Christian story in a majority Muslim country. "Dialogue and respect is the fountain of peace." Against convention his Catholic Church has Vatican dispensation to celebrate Easter on the same day as the Orthodox Church. Both churches coordinate mass so believers can attend both. Icons are hung on the wall out of respect for the eastern traditions. ...

Tarsus

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We left Cappadocia and crossed the Tarsus Mountains through the Cilician Gate--a natural faultline which serves as the passage from Syria and the Mediterranean coast to Galatia. I was excited to experience this geographical aspect of Paul's journeys. The rugged terrain of 13,000 foot peaks looks daunting. We passed through in our air conditioned motor coach, but Paul walked. No wonder he traveled with companions who could help defend from wild animals and thieves. Paul's hometown of ancient Tarsus is mostly covered over by modern Tarsus, except for a portion of the main Roman road, Cleopatra's Gate (where she met Mark Antony) and Paul's Well, which is supposed to be the well in his childhood Jewish neighborhood. The well is 85 feet deep and still produces clean drinking water. We took surprising detours: pictures with a bride and groom, tasted the pickled red carrot juice (that looks like it should be sweet), and local sesame cookies. We visited the Tarsus America...