Camino de Santiago Day Seven

Los Arcos to Logroño 

We left Los Arcos by 7:30–a late start along the Camino. Today was a long stretch, about 30km or 18mi, but another beautiful day with sun at our backs and a cool breeze in our faces.

I met Peter from Australia. He and his wife are traveling with another couple but today he was walking alone. We met the first day in Orisson. Amy and I had finished morning prayer and were singing “Praise the Name of the Lord Most High.” I forgot the verses so we replaced them with Amazing Grace. I knew Peter attended church and I asked him to sing the second verse with me. He told me all about his own journey of faith that started when he was the child of baptist missionaries, but became more personal in his 50s. Now he’s part of a vibrant church and we shared a bit about how we are experiencing God in this Camino. 

We transitioned today from Navarra to La Rioja regions. This is the time of year to see new growth and sprouts on the mature vines—everything is green. It takes great care to prune the vines as they grow so the fruit it produces is good. We learned more on a tour of a winery. A lot of the fruit is sacrificed—cut off the plant and left for compost—so that the harvested fruit is flavorful. Many of the vines are 80 years old. They don’t yield as much as the young vines, but the young fruit isn’t as tasty. There are more lessons here about age and fruitfulness...

We stopped at the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Torres del Río, built in the 12th century. It’s got an artistic dome and a simple crucifix. The prayer on the altar below the crucifix says “although your sins put me here, all I ask of you is a contrite heart."

About gear and pain...

We are carrying less than 10 pounds plus water. Some people send their gear ahead to the next town, and some carry packs with 40 pounds. We think it’s part of the experience to travel light. I have two choices for pants (short or long) and two choices for shirts (short or long) to walk in. Plus, I have a short sleeve collared shirt to wear in the evening. 

I bought new insoles on the second day to give more support and cushion. But, no matter what, after 13 or 17 miles our feet and legs are done. The first thing we do at the albergue is shower, then tend to our feet.

I found Recup at Decathlon store in Barcelona—it helps to massage feet and calves with “essential oils.” Vaseline is a must before we walk in the morning. There is going to be pain, it’s just whether the pain is bearable or debilitating. One pilgrim from Winnipeg had blisters on three toes and his nail was coming off the nail bed on day three. Another pilgrim gave him her hiking sandals and he carried on. Another Pilgrim from Quebec told us at dinner she is in pain as she walks, but she is walking for her grandson who has a rare neuromuscular disease. She is a poultry farmer with 60,000 chickens. He is with me all the way, she said. She thinks and prays for him.

We met Ted and Darlene from Winnipeg. They pastor a church and are also here on sabbatical (his church calls it sustainability leave). Darlene hurts above her ankle and was looking for new shoes today. She limped with her poles for most of the 18 miles yesterday. But today they were off with big smiles, while we took a rest day in Logroño.

Buen Camino.